.
Thanks, Ed
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Edward, hows it going? happy holidays. Which fixtures are you talking about? When I create profiles the pan and tilt always have a default of 127. Its just the fixtures programming of the 0 values that make the head go back to the "Home" position. What you could do is make a blackout scene and move the fixtures to your desired position. i do this in compu live. i usually have my pan at about dmx values of 180 and tilt about 115-137. For my dmx however when starting a new scene or if you want a previous scene's X and Y values to be copied over or around the same area simply select scene copy. I can post screen shots if you would like. Let me know. Or if i miss understood your question please let me know. Thanks.
Sincerely,
Sincerely,
In my experience, I am moving in the same direction Jingles is pointing you to. We have apparently come to the same conclusion independently. The biggest difference he is doing it and I haven't yet.
What I would do is essentially the same thing. Make your moves within other scenes. Do a lot of scene copying to save hassles.
In my case, I'm taking this a step further to address many of the concerns I have with my movers. Using steps(see a previous posting), I can have my Cans start to fade in/out, while letting my movers hit their mark. Using the 3D Visualizer, I can see if the movers are where I want and the color and gobo. What I can then do is copy that step(I think, I haven't done it yet) or add a step. I'm assuming this step will start by replicating the previous step. Then I go back to step 1 and blackout the movers. In my case, blackout is via a shutter. At any rate, have about a 2-second delay between steps and I should be good.
My reason is the same as yours:
I don't want people seeing the moving beam(unless that's the effect I want) and not the color wheel spinning and the gobo wheel moving when I'm going from scene to scene.
Let's also look at some of my scene settings.
Going simple, let's just assume my 8 64LED Pro's and my 2 identical movers. I can make scenes on my 64 LED Pros to match the colors of the mover's color wheel, so let's just say for sake of argument, that is 10 colors. So, I would have 10 scenes of the 64 LED pros set to the same colors as the color wheel in my movers.
So, let's say Scene 1 is: LED white and Mover White. This scene puts the mover pointing IN the stage as more fill. But step 1 is mover blackout to accomodate moving and color and gobo wheel movement, and step 2 just opens the shutter wide open.
Scene 2 is LED White, but with mover positioning, but shuttered off.
Making any sense? I'm tired, I apologize.
Let's put it this way, what you want can be done and doesn't require a whole lot of effort.
As I learn to use my movers more effectively, I am starting to better understand how to properly manage movement and changing the color and gobo wheels. I've come to the conclusion that while it may seem seem silly to have all this non-used yoke movement, it allows me to be a step ahead when I want to do other things.
I do a lot of copying and tweaking of scenes, so I save myself a lot of time.
I don't think making a profile adjustment is the right way to do it. The profile is the fixure's attributes, as it should be. The rest(say, your adjusted defaults) should be something you are in direct control over. You can always write down values and manually enter them in MyDMX to save time.
OK, back to transferring tapes. It's a thankless job. It's also not going well, but that's not a topic for here.
Use steps, it will help a lot and do what you want done properly. You can have Step 1 be your movement and fade portion at 2 seconds or less, then step 2 be your mover popping on. Should work good.
What I would do is essentially the same thing. Make your moves within other scenes. Do a lot of scene copying to save hassles.
In my case, I'm taking this a step further to address many of the concerns I have with my movers. Using steps(see a previous posting), I can have my Cans start to fade in/out, while letting my movers hit their mark. Using the 3D Visualizer, I can see if the movers are where I want and the color and gobo. What I can then do is copy that step(I think, I haven't done it yet) or add a step. I'm assuming this step will start by replicating the previous step. Then I go back to step 1 and blackout the movers. In my case, blackout is via a shutter. At any rate, have about a 2-second delay between steps and I should be good.
My reason is the same as yours:
I don't want people seeing the moving beam(unless that's the effect I want) and not the color wheel spinning and the gobo wheel moving when I'm going from scene to scene.
Let's also look at some of my scene settings.
Going simple, let's just assume my 8 64LED Pro's and my 2 identical movers. I can make scenes on my 64 LED Pros to match the colors of the mover's color wheel, so let's just say for sake of argument, that is 10 colors. So, I would have 10 scenes of the 64 LED pros set to the same colors as the color wheel in my movers.
So, let's say Scene 1 is: LED white and Mover White. This scene puts the mover pointing IN the stage as more fill. But step 1 is mover blackout to accomodate moving and color and gobo wheel movement, and step 2 just opens the shutter wide open.
Scene 2 is LED White, but with mover positioning, but shuttered off.
Making any sense? I'm tired, I apologize.
Let's put it this way, what you want can be done and doesn't require a whole lot of effort.
As I learn to use my movers more effectively, I am starting to better understand how to properly manage movement and changing the color and gobo wheels. I've come to the conclusion that while it may seem seem silly to have all this non-used yoke movement, it allows me to be a step ahead when I want to do other things.
I do a lot of copying and tweaking of scenes, so I save myself a lot of time.
I don't think making a profile adjustment is the right way to do it. The profile is the fixure's attributes, as it should be. The rest(say, your adjusted defaults) should be something you are in direct control over. You can always write down values and manually enter them in MyDMX to save time.
OK, back to transferring tapes. It's a thankless job. It's also not going well, but that's not a topic for here.
Use steps, it will help a lot and do what you want done properly. You can have Step 1 be your movement and fade portion at 2 seconds or less, then step 2 be your mover popping on. Should work good.
Thanks You guys,
It sounds like great advice, I will go experiment with your ideas.
I will let you know how it goes.
Jingles, the fixtures are the G-lites 300s and Martin 250 Kryptons.
Ed
It sounds like great advice, I will go experiment with your ideas.
I will let you know how it goes.
Jingles, the fixtures are the G-lites 300s and Martin 250 Kryptons.
Ed
Thank for the advice. I am really making some progress here. The copy previous scene seems to be key.
Ed
Ed
cool. Glad you are working it out. If you ever have any more questions, you know where to find me.
Sincerely,
Sincerely,
The copy scene thing saves a lot of time for me.
So, let's say I am using my 64 LED Pros in colors that match my color changing wash fixtures that have a color wheel, I simply match the colors on the 64 LED Pros, then copy those scenes, then add in the color wash fixtures with the appropriate color wheel to match the 64 LED Pro colors.
Once you decide to get comfortable with MyDMX, there are all sorts of things you can come up with to save time.
So, let's say I am using my 64 LED Pros in colors that match my color changing wash fixtures that have a color wheel, I simply match the colors on the 64 LED Pros, then copy those scenes, then add in the color wash fixtures with the appropriate color wheel to match the 64 LED Pro colors.
Once you decide to get comfortable with MyDMX, there are all sorts of things you can come up with to save time.