I have 2 LED lights with dip switches instead of an LED display. I want to use one as master and one as slave. How do I set the dip switches numbers for each one?
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which lights do you have? Also i'm sure this information is in the user manual. Might wanna give that a look first.
Sincerely,
Sincerely,
I don't have my gear here to see. But I found out online too. Very simple.
cannot find the manual. please help
I cannot help you if you don't tell me what the lights are. Name of company that made them? Series name? Let me know.
Sincerely,
Sincerely,
It's a common address. Shouldn't matter the fixture.
No, it's not a common address. Various lights use different DIP switch settings to determine master and slave. Not to knock anyone, but there is inconsistency between the ADJ brand(non-like fixtures do not all share the same configuration to do master/slave) and also Chauvet brand(again, non-like fixtures do not all share the same configuration to do master/slave) for configuring master/slave modes and assignments, so, your statement of "it's a common address. Shouldn't matter the fixture" is a total innacurate statement.
In some cases, the solution is as simple as "hook them up and whatever is first in the chain is the master, provided DMX is not already running, and all lights further down are slaves up to the maximum number of fixtures this particular fixture supports". Some can drive anywhere from 2-12 slaves. Some can probably drive more. That's definately a "read the manual" issue.
In other cases, you do have to read the manual and/or follow a chart silkscreened onto the fixture case to tell you what switches to flip.
In the case of my fast and cheesy halloween configuration, I had to set 1 of my 2 Color Fusions into Master mode AND sound active. I left the other in the case, didn't need it. I had to consult the PDF of the manual to make this happen.
Using my Chauvet Intimidator Color 1.0 fixtures, the configuration also involves DIP switches. To enter master/slave mode, it's not the same switches.
ALSO, I'd like to thank ADJ for MyDMX and ADJ again and Chauvet for using at least a standard set of DIP switch positions for indicating DMX addressing. I also want to give props to MyDMX for saying "Hey, if this is your starting address, I'll show you which switches to flip". Man, that was a MASSIVE time saver at a recent 4-day event! OK, well, it saved 15 minutes, but that's a lot of time.
So, without brand and models, it's not possible to tell you what switches to flip to make it happen. You have to help US before we can help you. But if you want self-help, I suggest you start with the manual. I also have a suggestion for not only you but all folks: Whenever possible, download the PDF of the gear you have and keep it on a USB stick or someplace easily accessible. I find myself frequently referring to this virtual library I hvae assembled. I rarely have internet at gigs, and this has saved my posterior many times.
This reminds me of the earlier days of usenet for sale postings. I saw a guy say "For sale, video game with 2 controllers and 10 games. $50". He was whining that nobody would buy it and he was also nasty when people inquired about what he was selling. I know, I asked, and I got "I'm selling a video game system with 10 games and 2 controllers. What else do you need to know?" Uh, like, what make and what games? Never did find out how that ended, I know he ranted himself out of the group.
In some cases, the solution is as simple as "hook them up and whatever is first in the chain is the master, provided DMX is not already running, and all lights further down are slaves up to the maximum number of fixtures this particular fixture supports". Some can drive anywhere from 2-12 slaves. Some can probably drive more. That's definately a "read the manual" issue.
In other cases, you do have to read the manual and/or follow a chart silkscreened onto the fixture case to tell you what switches to flip.
In the case of my fast and cheesy halloween configuration, I had to set 1 of my 2 Color Fusions into Master mode AND sound active. I left the other in the case, didn't need it. I had to consult the PDF of the manual to make this happen.
Using my Chauvet Intimidator Color 1.0 fixtures, the configuration also involves DIP switches. To enter master/slave mode, it's not the same switches.
ALSO, I'd like to thank ADJ for MyDMX and ADJ again and Chauvet for using at least a standard set of DIP switch positions for indicating DMX addressing. I also want to give props to MyDMX for saying "Hey, if this is your starting address, I'll show you which switches to flip". Man, that was a MASSIVE time saver at a recent 4-day event! OK, well, it saved 15 minutes, but that's a lot of time.
So, without brand and models, it's not possible to tell you what switches to flip to make it happen. You have to help US before we can help you. But if you want self-help, I suggest you start with the manual. I also have a suggestion for not only you but all folks: Whenever possible, download the PDF of the gear you have and keep it on a USB stick or someplace easily accessible. I find myself frequently referring to this virtual library I hvae assembled. I rarely have internet at gigs, and this has saved my posterior many times.
This reminds me of the earlier days of usenet for sale postings. I saw a guy say "For sale, video game with 2 controllers and 10 games. $50". He was whining that nobody would buy it and he was also nasty when people inquired about what he was selling. I know, I asked, and I got "I'm selling a video game system with 10 games and 2 controllers. What else do you need to know?" Uh, like, what make and what games? Never did find out how that ended, I know he ranted himself out of the group.
Well here is my problem. I bought them from overseas and they are knock a off of the American DJ Punch LEDs
Try the settings for the equivalent ADj light. you might get lucky.
Sincerely,
Sincerely,
So, let me get this straight:
You're refusing to provide some information, such as "brand" and "model", but you are willing to state they are a knock-off an an American DJ light.
Help us to help you.
Are you having voltage issues as well?
Let me give you a couple of words of friendly advise, and this isn't a pro-ADJ plug either:
Please, buy NAME BRAND whenever possible, especially if this is part of your business. I don't care what brand it is, ADJ, Chauvet, Elation, Shure(there were TWO massive Shure busts this year) and so on. Be POSITIVE that you are buying that name brand, and not a fake.
Going back to those Shure busts, some Chinese companies were making Shure-branded knock-offs. Quite well made fakes though, but didn't sound right.
Make sure you buy from authorized dealers. This helps guarantee that you're getting authentic product. Buying authentic product ensures you get support and warranty support. Major important.
Yes, you may pay a bit more. It's so worth it. I can refer you to a highly reputable dealer that I do a lot of my purchases through. Based on your location and his location, you're almost local. I push all my lighting purchases through him, and sometimes other gear as well. I bought over $2800 of wireless mics last month through local dealers because I had a need right then and there though. You can contact me off-line or visit my web site to find his site, it is not hidden.
Another word on fakes. I'm a Disney fan, no secret. Doing casual research, I'm finding out about HUGE counterfeiting operations of Disney pins by the SAME factories making the authorized pins. Disney says "make this many" and they(the Chinese folks) make way more than that. It's hard to find many of these fakes because they are using the exact dies, materials and everything, just are basically unauthorized overages. They then sell these on the black market as well as through Ebay and other internet avenues.
Likewise, the fake Shure microphones were being sold packaged IDENTICAL to the REAL Shure microphones(box and printing, pouch, clip, insert, bubble wrap, manual, sticker, cable tie), but the manufacturing varied a bit. Good fakes, but still fakes and not the same quality in build and sound. The sellers were "hailing" from stateside United States, but the shipping addresses always came from mainland China.
Keep support concerns in mind as you buy cheap knock-offs. What you end up saving up front, you lose when you have to replace it when it fails. Here's another way to look at it: A Punch Pro sells for $399.99(listed on ADJ's web site). SHOULD this item fail within the warranty period, worse I am out is $25 in shipping. With a 3-year warranty, that's pretty darn good.
There is some brand selling cheap LED Par64's through Guitar Center. They remind me of a cheap version of the 64 LED's, not the 64 LED Pros. I just can't justify the cost savings. Not only are they not capable of doing what I want done, but the price point tells me there has to be other things to warn me about.
In the meantime, you should check with the company that made the product and ask them why they don't support their products. It is ALSO entirely possible that they don't support a full complement of functions, and may not even work in a master/slave mode. Only way to know is to read your manual and/or contact the folks who made it.
You're refusing to provide some information, such as "brand" and "model", but you are willing to state they are a knock-off an an American DJ light.
Help us to help you.
Are you having voltage issues as well?
Let me give you a couple of words of friendly advise, and this isn't a pro-ADJ plug either:
Please, buy NAME BRAND whenever possible, especially if this is part of your business. I don't care what brand it is, ADJ, Chauvet, Elation, Shure(there were TWO massive Shure busts this year) and so on. Be POSITIVE that you are buying that name brand, and not a fake.
Going back to those Shure busts, some Chinese companies were making Shure-branded knock-offs. Quite well made fakes though, but didn't sound right.
Make sure you buy from authorized dealers. This helps guarantee that you're getting authentic product. Buying authentic product ensures you get support and warranty support. Major important.
Yes, you may pay a bit more. It's so worth it. I can refer you to a highly reputable dealer that I do a lot of my purchases through. Based on your location and his location, you're almost local. I push all my lighting purchases through him, and sometimes other gear as well. I bought over $2800 of wireless mics last month through local dealers because I had a need right then and there though. You can contact me off-line or visit my web site to find his site, it is not hidden.
Another word on fakes. I'm a Disney fan, no secret. Doing casual research, I'm finding out about HUGE counterfeiting operations of Disney pins by the SAME factories making the authorized pins. Disney says "make this many" and they(the Chinese folks) make way more than that. It's hard to find many of these fakes because they are using the exact dies, materials and everything, just are basically unauthorized overages. They then sell these on the black market as well as through Ebay and other internet avenues.
Likewise, the fake Shure microphones were being sold packaged IDENTICAL to the REAL Shure microphones(box and printing, pouch, clip, insert, bubble wrap, manual, sticker, cable tie), but the manufacturing varied a bit. Good fakes, but still fakes and not the same quality in build and sound. The sellers were "hailing" from stateside United States, but the shipping addresses always came from mainland China.
Keep support concerns in mind as you buy cheap knock-offs. What you end up saving up front, you lose when you have to replace it when it fails. Here's another way to look at it: A Punch Pro sells for $399.99(listed on ADJ's web site). SHOULD this item fail within the warranty period, worse I am out is $25 in shipping. With a 3-year warranty, that's pretty darn good.
There is some brand selling cheap LED Par64's through Guitar Center. They remind me of a cheap version of the 64 LED's, not the 64 LED Pros. I just can't justify the cost savings. Not only are they not capable of doing what I want done, but the price point tells me there has to be other things to warn me about.
In the meantime, you should check with the company that made the product and ask them why they don't support their products. It is ALSO entirely possible that they don't support a full complement of functions, and may not even work in a master/slave mode. Only way to know is to read your manual and/or contact the folks who made it.
quote:Originally posted by Jingles:
Try the settings for the equivalent ADj light. you might get lucky.
Sincerely,
I know but the ADJ Punch has a LED display and not dip switches.
oh and FYI, I do buy ADJ lights. My fault the this time i wz trying to save money and buy knock offs, my bad
If you want to save money, the place to do that is usually with cables. Well-cared for cheap cables can last a long time, provided they aren't a total POS in the first place.
Not to continue to knock China, but they are in the habit of stealing everything that comes through their country. They are excited about Disneyland hitting Shanghai because there will be a new "mine" of technology to steal. And it will be stolen, guaranteed. Crank out some lights, sell them off, vanish, repeat a while later with a few thousand others.... Sort of the Chinese version of "lather, rinse, repeat".
Even Mackie isn't immune. The original SRM450 speakers were made using Italian-made RCF drivers and assembled in Italy. The second generation of those, the ones that were made in China using Chinese-made RCF drivers, simply DO NOT sound as good, despite claiming identical parts. The latest Gen2 ones, I am not interested in, but they are at least a second generation unit(different amp design, same bad heat sink design).
I tried to save money with Chauvet. I got lucky, mine work fine and I won't give up those fixtures. At least I went with a brand name.
Also, when you get a chance, let us know how that master/slave thing is going.
Not to continue to knock China, but they are in the habit of stealing everything that comes through their country. They are excited about Disneyland hitting Shanghai because there will be a new "mine" of technology to steal. And it will be stolen, guaranteed. Crank out some lights, sell them off, vanish, repeat a while later with a few thousand others.... Sort of the Chinese version of "lather, rinse, repeat".
Even Mackie isn't immune. The original SRM450 speakers were made using Italian-made RCF drivers and assembled in Italy. The second generation of those, the ones that were made in China using Chinese-made RCF drivers, simply DO NOT sound as good, despite claiming identical parts. The latest Gen2 ones, I am not interested in, but they are at least a second generation unit(different amp design, same bad heat sink design).
I tried to save money with Chauvet. I got lucky, mine work fine and I won't give up those fixtures. At least I went with a brand name.
Also, when you get a chance, let us know how that master/slave thing is going.