Up late, brain frying.
Anyhow, seeing as how I can get higher lumens from a lower wattage halogen(90-watt at 1800 lumens) vs incandescent (150 watts at 1600 lumens), it seems I can get way more "bang for the buck" as well as save on circuit usage by switching over. My main interests are from the stand-point that I can run more lights with less current draw while at the same time providing same or more lighting to the stage area. With 24 Par38B's, that can be a lot of lights. I don't intend to run all at once. If I'm using 150-watt bulbs, I can only run 12 at once. If I run 90-watt halogens, I can run 20, assuming a 15-amp circuit and not running gimmicks(intells, intel effects, centerpieces, anything else). I don't mind dropping the wattage down further if need be.
My question is due to lack of clarity. I am getting conflicting information. Some say "don't run halogen medium screw bulbs to replace incandescents", while others say "it is dependent on the socket type". So, ADJ, what do you say? Is this safe to do with your sockets? I know it's a heat issue.
Speaking of heat issues, I gel most of my cans. Is there hazard of melting my gel sheets or otherwise ruining them? I don't want to have to replace them all the time, and I also don't intend to go higher than a bulb producing 1800 lumens. I'm happy at 1600 lumens per bulb currently.
I'm anxious to hear, as I'm highly interested to replace all the bulbs if it is approved. I just don't have time to head to a store right now to check wattage/lumens comparisons, and finding 150-watt incandescent par38-style indoor/outdoor floods isn't always as convenient as I was led to believe, but I can find replacement halogens no problem. Around me, there's only one store, and they don't always have them. Fortunately I buy more spares than I need.
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