Hey all do any of the cans have a bracket that can be stright up for uplighting without having problems with the DMX cables? Thanks in Advance.
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Hi J&S Music and welcome to the forums.
I am not quite sure what you are looking to spend, so I apologize if I recommend something out of your budget range
See here for a bunch of fixtures from Elation that you can tell have brackets on them for up lighting. Cabling to them is not an issue thanks to the bracket.
See here for a bunch of LED fixtures from AMDJ that also have brackets. Again, cabling with any of these fixtures shouldn't be an issue.
Lastly, if you don't see something you like or a fixture that doesn't have a bracket that you do like, you can always attach the fixture to a mic base. This will again allow for easy cabling.
If the above is still an issue, I know for a fact that the Opti 30 RGB, Opti 30 Tri, Opti RGB and Opti Tri all have the cables come out the back of the fixture at a 90 degree angle when the fixture is straight up and down.
Hope this helps and once again welcome to the forums.
I am not quite sure what you are looking to spend, so I apologize if I recommend something out of your budget range
See here for a bunch of fixtures from Elation that you can tell have brackets on them for up lighting. Cabling to them is not an issue thanks to the bracket.
See here for a bunch of LED fixtures from AMDJ that also have brackets. Again, cabling with any of these fixtures shouldn't be an issue.
Lastly, if you don't see something you like or a fixture that doesn't have a bracket that you do like, you can always attach the fixture to a mic base. This will again allow for easy cabling.
If the above is still an issue, I know for a fact that the Opti 30 RGB, Opti 30 Tri, Opti RGB and Opti Tri all have the cables come out the back of the fixture at a 90 degree angle when the fixture is straight up and down.
Hope this helps and once again welcome to the forums.
Serra Thanks for the reply. I guess I could have given some further information and made my question better to understand. I was looking at the LED Pro 38, my plan would be to run 8-10 cans around the room standing up for the effect. Many of the reviews I see mention the dmx conectors being on the back of the can cause issues getting them to stand up. SOme peopel offer recomendations about stands ansd brackets. I would really perfer just haveing a can that can stand freely on its own with the DMX in and out connected.
Again thank you for the reply.
Again thank you for the reply.
Ah, okay. Since I work pretty much nothing but corporate events with some concerts/weddings/parties/proms and theatre on the side, up lighting is like second nature to me.
You will find that the most effective angle for up lighting isn't actually straight up and down but at an angle. Some times, depending on situation, it even helps to pull the fixtures away from what you are up lighting a bit. Also I generally try and aim the center of the light at the top of what I am up lighting. If it is a wall, then where the wall and roof meet.
Translation, you should be okay with cables coming directly out the back once you get the lights on that slight angle.
You will find that the most effective angle for up lighting isn't actually straight up and down but at an angle. Some times, depending on situation, it even helps to pull the fixtures away from what you are up lighting a bit. Also I generally try and aim the center of the light at the top of what I am up lighting. If it is a wall, then where the wall and roof meet.
Translation, you should be okay with cables coming directly out the back once you get the lights on that slight angle.
The ADJ LED Pars, at least the 64LED and 64LED Pros have brackets that can also be used as floor stands.
Another option might be to use i-beam trussing and use that as a more solid platform for floor mounting lights as well as quickly putting on/off stage.
Another option might be to use i-beam trussing and use that as a more solid platform for floor mounting lights as well as quickly putting on/off stage.
i just thought i would jump in with this idea. i have used these on a couple of my lights
http://cgi.ebay.com/IPS-FP-06-...d=p4634.c0.m14.l1262
http://cgi.ebay.com/IPS-FP-06-...d=p4634.c0.m14.l1262
Nice, but those are more for pipe and draping. Those must be super heavy. Not saying it's a bad idea, but just saying those are heavy!
Actually after further looking, these are designed for par cans. So, they probably have a bit of heft, but aren't like those massively heavy pipe and drape bases of roughly the same size.
At those prices, I'd say many of us could afford to buy a few of these.
Thanks for throwing that out there. I'm happy using that 5-foot span of i-bram truss for now, but I think it may be time to move on to these things.
Actually after further looking, these are designed for par cans. So, they probably have a bit of heft, but aren't like those massively heavy pipe and drape bases of roughly the same size.
At those prices, I'd say many of us could afford to buy a few of these.
Thanks for throwing that out there. I'm happy using that 5-foot span of i-bram truss for now, but I think it may be time to move on to these things.
ive always used half inch plywood cut into a a sqare foot.. Run a bolt through the middle. add wing wut and some washers paint it all black.. ALOT cheaper and works for me just as well when i do corporate lighting and other kind of architectual(sp) lighting.. Just a thought..
Not a bad idea, but I have a couple of questions:
How are you getting that bolt "flat" on the bottom? Are you counter-sinking it by using some sort of bit to take out extra wood, or do you have some sort of flat-headed bolts?
I just get the impression of wobbling at first. Or, I guess you can just put some corner pieces or some additional wood around the edging secured with screws, nails or glue to build it up a tiny bit so the bolt isn't hitting the ground.
Other than that, it sounds good. I'd rather have the metal though. It may weigh more, may require me to purchase it, but then I don't have to go buy the tools to make the stuff.
How are you getting that bolt "flat" on the bottom? Are you counter-sinking it by using some sort of bit to take out extra wood, or do you have some sort of flat-headed bolts?
I just get the impression of wobbling at first. Or, I guess you can just put some corner pieces or some additional wood around the edging secured with screws, nails or glue to build it up a tiny bit so the bolt isn't hitting the ground.
Other than that, it sounds good. I'd rather have the metal though. It may weigh more, may require me to purchase it, but then I don't have to go buy the tools to make the stuff.
Mic stand bases are your friends. They work wondrously and aren't extremely expensive. No worries about stability and the bolt doesn't cause a wobble.
Aluminum plates with a bracket were made for uplighting stands...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6z2cMgPO74Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6z2cMgPO74Q
I mainly use tripod bases for my mics. Had a guy who went "primate caca" and started trashing the stage with the cast iron based stand. Thank goodness only he got hurt as security took him down. And thank goodness it was also at near the end of the show so curtain was dropped and security brought in. Thank goodness it wasn't my gear at that show, but I was mixing FOH.
I decided to avoid the solid stands as much as possible. Granted, you can still do a wonderous amount of damage quickly with a tripod as well, but it's less mass in a small area.
I think the only solid base mic stand I have is for my RTA mic and it's only like 6 inches tall and normally sits on my doghouse during events. I think the only time that ever got grabbed was when someone I was talking to picked it up and asked what this mic was doing over here. It was before a show anyways.
But, supporting SerraAva: yes, you can just by the bases, and with their weight, should work good, or add some sandbags to take care of it. Me personally, I'd want a metal plate: spread out more, a bit more stable. But as I said, that's just me.
Thank goodness we're getting all sorts of ideas about mounting uplighting here.
I decided to avoid the solid stands as much as possible. Granted, you can still do a wonderous amount of damage quickly with a tripod as well, but it's less mass in a small area.
I think the only solid base mic stand I have is for my RTA mic and it's only like 6 inches tall and normally sits on my doghouse during events. I think the only time that ever got grabbed was when someone I was talking to picked it up and asked what this mic was doing over here. It was before a show anyways.
But, supporting SerraAva: yes, you can just by the bases, and with their weight, should work good, or add some sandbags to take care of it. Me personally, I'd want a metal plate: spread out more, a bit more stable. But as I said, that's just me.
Thank goodness we're getting all sorts of ideas about mounting uplighting here.
I do a lot of uplighting and I use some of that window foam on the botom fo my uplight base plates is the 4 coners to help make the plate flat so it dosent teater in the center bolt check out my "Do it From Scratch" Videos on YouTube from directsound on how to build base plate for uplighting... also it helps it grip better to the floor the foam works good with a thin aluminum base plate...
The 64 LED Pros have a bracket that can be used for floor mounting. Not sure if I would do that, but they can do it.
DJ Mikey Mike:
I don't recall you hiring me to do weddings. I guess you're not providing the best sound!
Sorry, couldn't pass on that one. I'm passing on an event coming up since, well, let's say the "event operator" is of that French Dumas blood line, if you get my drift. He can't fathom "I'm not augmenting your crap, I'm going to bring in mine and you can leave your crap at home".
But, back to the bracket thing: ADJ lists the brackets on the fixtures that can be floor mounted WITHOUT needing help.
DJ Mikey Mike:
I don't recall you hiring me to do weddings. I guess you're not providing the best sound!
Sorry, couldn't pass on that one. I'm passing on an event coming up since, well, let's say the "event operator" is of that French Dumas blood line, if you get my drift. He can't fathom "I'm not augmenting your crap, I'm going to bring in mine and you can leave your crap at home".
But, back to the bracket thing: ADJ lists the brackets on the fixtures that can be floor mounted WITHOUT needing help.
Chris I not quite sure where your going with this.. is that the guy you said you wouldent work for?
Just busting your chops a little at your expense baased on your signature. Just some good natured stuff, nothing to take personally.
I've been having additional conversations with that MP3 DJ, and none of which are calls I iniitiated. Oh, now he's threatening to slander me since I don't want to do the job. Odd how he didn't want to pay me and not sign a contract. Slander away!! No contract, no show up.
I really need to just save his number and assigned it the silent ring sound.
I've been having additional conversations with that MP3 DJ, and none of which are calls I iniitiated. Oh, now he's threatening to slander me since I don't want to do the job. Odd how he didn't want to pay me and not sign a contract. Slander away!! No contract, no show up.
I really need to just save his number and assigned it the silent ring sound.
No problem I just thought I might have known you and I had a conversation with someone about "event operator" is of that French Dumas blood line"... anyway Its all good I know where I stand. I dont mind a bit of rasing from time to time ...We all know I do need it LOL anyway I'm just here to help like most of us and pick up a nuget or two that makes may make my life easer, now that I am getting older I move a bit slower so I can use all the help I can get :-) .... Here are a few uplighting pics that I used the base plates on. The Moving Heads are AccuSpot 250II's that I changed the Gobos out on and put in the 19 degree lense.
[IMG:]http://www.directsound.com/images/ds333.JPG[/IMG]
mm
[IMG:]http://www.directsound.com/images/ds333.JPG[/IMG]
mm
Well, gee, looks like you are also not dealing with French couples of the Dumas lineage! Looks like you were given adequate time to set-up properly. A bit busy for my tastes overall. What was the color theme for that event?
What people need to take a look at is what isn't shown terribly well on those photos. Notice the blue and pink uplighting, as well as the uplighting used to accent the pillars, which is especially notable on the first snapshot.
I typically get the couples who give me 30 minutes to set up a full concert sound system with lights and then whine to me when the band they hired shows up late. It's one of those "I don't understand it, therefore it must be easy" sort of lines of logic they use.
(but excessive load in times are why previous crew have been excluded from future events. I mean, how long does it take to wheel in 2 stacked subwoofers on a 4" caster wheel base and then come back for more stuff? It takes exactly a minute to move those suckers 200 feet and come back, not 15 minutes of texting and cell phoning)
What people need to take a look at is what isn't shown terribly well on those photos. Notice the blue and pink uplighting, as well as the uplighting used to accent the pillars, which is especially notable on the first snapshot.
I typically get the couples who give me 30 minutes to set up a full concert sound system with lights and then whine to me when the band they hired shows up late. It's one of those "I don't understand it, therefore it must be easy" sort of lines of logic they use.
(but excessive load in times are why previous crew have been excluded from future events. I mean, how long does it take to wheel in 2 stacked subwoofers on a 4" caster wheel base and then come back for more stuff? It takes exactly a minute to move those suckers 200 feet and come back, not 15 minutes of texting and cell phoning)
30 minutes I can get my sound system set up but the lights take that long to gaff tape down... This wedding was Blue if you watch my youtube video on it, it shows the progression from Blue through dinner then color fading through the formalities and then full chaos for the rest of the night…It’s not as busy as it looks in the pics but compared to one tripod with a few flashy lights I can see it could be
Yes I had adequate time to set-up properly this time, but it’s weird if I had one hr to set up it would done or if I had five hrs to do it I seem to lag if I have too much time. I always finish just before I have to start. I just make it happen either way. As you said most clients just don’t get it they think you should just get there and everything sets up it-self. NOT!
Yes I had adequate time to set-up properly this time, but it’s weird if I had one hr to set up it would done or if I had five hrs to do it I seem to lag if I have too much time. I always finish just before I have to start. I just make it happen either way. As you said most clients just don’t get it they think you should just get there and everything sets up it-self. NOT!