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Ok, so after an atrocity of unbearable proportions, my set of dual 15's are broken. They are out of square but other than that they just push air out of all the seams and rattle now. So question is....
Should I just buy replacement cabinets or build my own??? I am leaning towards building my own because most my other sets are trapezoid style and i could make them with a few more improvements instead of the tack strip built ones I have now.
Is there any certain way i should build them or any better design or what?
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building them is no problem, a whole workshop and cool tools is availible, but the exact dynamics and size are a little harder to come up with as I have no idea what's needed.
The last speakerboxes were "professional" ones, that were toppled off the top of a 6ft. stack of subs. The components are fine but the boxes are junk. the speaker grills don;t have any scratches on them so the speakers themselves are ok. But I am looking at the replacements are they seem too flimsy and cheap to seem worth the extra dollars.
Ok now I understand, you're wanting to copy existing speaker boxes. If that is your only option then follow these simple rules (BTW I'm no expert just seen the internal and external of lots of different professional speaker boxes and most good speaker manufactures seem to follow the same guidlines)

1. You must copy the internal dimesions of the existing box exactly. Those speakers of yours were designed that way for a reason. It all comes back to speaker dynamics and specifications which is where I lose the plot because its out of my area of expertise.

2. The same goes for any ports/air holes. Don't compromise or over do this because it will have an effect on the overall sound of the speaker. Copy them exactly!

3. Use min 3/4 inch birch ply or any other high quality ply. Don't use MDF or chip board mainly because they are heavy and fragile respectively. Ply is light yet strong for speaker applications.

4. Use a combination of deep slotted/tongue-groove and wood screws (not nails) for your joints. You should be using a form of glue for all joints, PVA wood glue is good but something like Liquid Nails is preferable - stronger and lasts forever.

5. Seal all internal joints and any other defects/holes of your box with Caulking joint sealer. If sealed correctly the box should be able to hold water without leaks indefinately.

6. Allow/cut-out for heavy duty handles, transport wheels and connectors before sealing the box.

7. Line your boxes internally with 1-2inch thick insulation to allow for better base response and remove any resonance from your box.

8. Externally you can go in many directions that shouldn't affect the sound reproduction. Carpet or regular paint is ok but if possible try getting a "Rock-Hard Coating" which if you haven't seen is like a rough gloss paint but much much tougher and gives a nice professional finish.

Ok that's all I can think of for now, good luck.

ROQ out
Ok, I have the materials, ready to go and make new ones.
Wait, the old boxes are ****. Although new, they are mdf and not caulked or glued or much of anything holding them together (guess that's why they fell apart)But they are pretty square in design and I was thinking of going trapezoid style??? making them the same as far as airspace though which takes a little math but i would think it'd work better as far as design compared to the other squared design, hopefully this might cut down on the back of the box flexing when the bass hits. When i played air force ones one time, it vibrated the banana out of the terminals...Yikes anyway tomorrow is gonna be the test day so here gois nothing.

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