Older lights, newer packs

I don't see why not, but that might become a tad pricy if not used properly.

I mean, on the one hand, if you have a UniPak II per fixture as you suggested. But this can get expensive. For a bit less money, you can gain more control over more fixtures by using regular dimmer packs. If this is in a "Clustered" configuration, dimmer packs make more sense. Say, for example I am using a DP-DMX20L dimmer pack, and I have a Sunray III, Mystic, an Electra and a Rover in somewhat close proximity, I can simply hang that DP-DMX20L and use that to turn on/off each channel/fixture via a single 4-channel device, which is cheaper than 4 UniPakII's.

Now, say a Millenium on one Uni Pak II and your Fearsome Fours on Uni Pak II, I don't see that being a big issue. Each Uni Pak II can handle 10 amps, and the Fearson Four does come CLOSE to that , but not quite, so you're fine as far as current draw.

What I am saying is you have options. Your idea will work just fine with no real problems. You'd definately need to add some sort of DMX controller for sure into the mix, or you can use the 1-channel DMX controller for the UniPak II that it appears to inclde, but then you have to deal with that distance of that cable, which makes a DMX controller make more sense.

A note you need to take into consideration:
The Uni Pak II, like the latest DP-DMX20L's, offering the option of setting your channels/ports to switched(on/off) or dimming(variable voltage output). Dimming is only good for traditional incandescent can-lights, such as par 38's, Par56's and Par64s(to name a few. Par 48's and Par36's come to mind as well). You need to set your pack's channel(s) to SWITCHING mode when using with a High-Tech fixture because the fixture is designed to be full on or full OFF. Reduced voltage can cause unpredictable results, which will ultimately lead to electrical damage. Switching is either ON or OFF, based on a threshhold setting, typically anything DMD value below 127 is OFF and above 128 is FULL ON.

Dimming: Cans. Switching: Hi-tech
Intels: DO NOT HOOK TO DIMMERS/Switchers. But you know that one already.

If you choose to go with the Uni Pak II for the Fearson Fours, you'll need some extension cables and splits just to get it all working properly, just as you do now without it, so nothing new there. Just swing your power input to the Uni Pak II and you're golden. If you choose to go with a DP-DMX20L, that dimmer/switcher can be set to 1, 2 and 4 channel DMX mode. So, you could turn it into a single power distro for your Fearsome Fours if you wanted to, but I wouldn't recommend that only because that dimmer could be better utilized in my opinion.

Dimmer packs and switcher packs definately bring control and otpions to older lights while letting them mix and match with cooler newer stuff.

Since you mention DMX controllers, the DMX Operator is a great controller for your application. Cheaper than the Pro, tons of options. But, if you insist on the DMX Operator Pro, you'd probably want to put those on the "fixtures" side of things. The "Conventionals" is intended to be used with Par Cans and regular dimmers. Even though you are using dimmers, this application is more "fixture" than conventional.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

If it was me:
DMX Operator(I have one, I'm preferential) for control.
1 DP-DMX20L set in 2 channel and all ports set for switching. Attach power cables as necessary.
Accucable as necessary
DMX Terminator in the DMX OUT port on the DP-DMX20L.
Address the Dimmer pack starting at 1.
Plug Millenium into the plugs marked 1.
Plug the Fearsom Fours into the power ports on 3 and 4.
Attach extensions as necessary.

Need to control?
Hit Fixture 1. Fader 1 is Millenium, Fader 2 is Fearsom Fours.
There ya go.

That's how I'd do it. Granted, I have the DMX Operator and the DP-DMX20L but my dimmer packs are older and do not support switching, but that's OK because I don't use them on high-tech lights.

The latest DP-DMX20L replaces both the older DP-DMX20L and the PP-DMX20L power pack(switching/relay). The latest DP-DMX20L puts the power of both into one package, keeping the DP-DMX20L as is at it's core, but adding the switching option per channel to take advantage of the relay/switching functionality of the PP-DMX20L.

Enjoy, have fun, rock on!

I already own the Pro so not looking to buy a lesser console; in fact I've been looking at computer software for the pro sound/stage lighting part of the biz and could just as easily use it on dj'ing. I have several DXM capable dimmer/relay packs but keep forgetting about them since the pro lighting rig is a rack with its own dimmers and power distro. I was just going to use Uni Pak II's in order to avoid accident resetting of the other packs back to dimmer mode. I also have a lot of non dmx older packs by another manufacturer for my traditional Par 56's but chose not to mention them since this is the AmDJ forums *grins* Most people here don't use NSI.

Just for the record, Fearsome 4/Sys uses only one power cable running to an electrical supply outlet and 3 slave cables going to the other 3 units. So in your example, I'd be putting the fearsome on Relay channel 1 and the Milleniums on Ch's 3 & 4.

Anyway, you seemed to have answered my questions so thank you. I wasn't sure if the Op Pro considered relay type packs as conventional or fixture. Ahh for the good old days of simple connections and terminology sometimes.

I had to assume you knew squat about squat. Clearly, that's not the case with you. That makes things easier.

I mean, I've run into people who buy a cheap DJ mixer, third/fourt/fifth-hand amps and speakers all beat to hell, and now they are suddenly a "concert promoter and full service sound production company" around here. I enjoy watching them flail and fail time and time again while ignorant event operators get stung time and time again. I am now stepping over those corpses and getting those jobs now!

MyDMX, as far as software is concerned, is pretty darn feature packed and cost effective, if you wanted to go software-based.

Why are you mixing and matching DMX with older analog control? I'm all for simplification, and moving to a single protocol would dl that for sure.

Personally, when I've compared the Pro to the Operator, I do see some strengths and weaknesses either way, but some of the silly restrictions on the Pro make the Operator better in my opinion. The Pro does have the advantage of a dedicated set of faders for your ParCans, letting you do two things at once.

Since I'm migrating more towards MyDMX and off my DMX Operator, I'm fairly content right now. I am now seeing needs for DMX splitting in my applications.

To me, it's not about brand, but rather "getting what I need out of the product, regardless of brand". Since my main application is pro sound, lights are secondary. For someone line me, sticking with one brand makes my life a bit easier. Until I get a full time lighting tech, that's how it's gonna be, other than my existing Chauvet fixtures.

Good to know the Fearsome 4 chains. Obviously it was set up with "quick" in mind. Despite being discontinued, that was probably a good sellng point for that.

A nice feature of the DP-DMX20L is that, probably like the UniPak II, is you can remove the rear plate and flip it around. This makes that top part turn into a "hook" that easily hangs onto most trussing, no clamp required. I am assuming that you'd be using the Fearsome 4's and Millenium on smaller events and smaller trusses. This is as opposed to your rack mount dimmers, which don't go "airborn" in any way. I'm sure from there you run everything off the dimmers as power leads via socapex that terminates into stage plugs to the individual cans, or at least that's how I've typically seen it done. This option is looking better for me (socapex) for running power to my trusses. Since I'm going LED, power requirements drops, but getting power conveniently up there is the issue.

"Why are you mixing and matching DMX with older analog control? I'm all for simplification, and moving to a single protocol would dl that for sure."

Because right now I've got the stuff and haven't decided exactly which lights I'm going to replace my non-DMX semi-intells with. I haven't really seen a decent millenium type light with DMX and I am considering some of the Saturns to replace my Fearsomes. Until I know exactly which fixtures I'm going to purchase, I want to keep using what I have and start using my Op Pro (it's sitting on a shelf ever since I got it and tried programming the Rainbow 250's into some decent chases. I gave up for awhile to give me some time to find replacements for those as well.)

Yeah Socapex cables are nice to have going up into the truss, one single cable running up to (6) 20A circuits of LEDs makes it look neat. I really don't like my dimmers/relays up in the air on live concerts but for the DJ system it won't be a problem. I'd rather run a soca cable from the few non-dmx dimmers/relays I use up to the lights so if a fuse blows midshow, I can replace it without digging out a ladder. Electrical in some of the midwest clubs is severely lacking.

Well, you can always "salvage" high-tech FX(what you're probably calling semi-intels, marketing should snare that from you!) using DMX dimmer packs. I've got a bunch of high-tech FX that I have only ever used on dimmer packs, so I don't really know anything else Just always made sense to me.

Yeah, I hear what you're saying. If you're doing a concert, you want as much control at floor level. Can't get out a scissor lift mid-show and change a fuse. But unless there's a major problem, NORMALLY you shouldn't need to replace a fuse. I tend to "front end" my dimmer packs and other lighting to a Furman unit, because I know that breaker will pop before the ones on the dimmers. I guess with all that midwest electrical storm activity, that must change the nature of things. I'm usually fighting for power, so by front-ending my gear with a Furman, I should theoretically pop my breaker before the club's breakers, so I can help manage power better. Club power is always sucky. And dealing with restaurants that do wedddings, just the same thing but with a bigger menu(usually).

I think as LED lights improve, that's going to open up more options for production companies. Now sound can be the power pig for a change!

If you get a chance, download MyDMX and give it a spin. If anything, I'm sure you'll love the 3D Visualizer. For me, that's a great selling point because I can't visualize unless I can actually see it. Since my wife won't let me set up stuff at home, this has been a major tool to help me see if my ideas are stupid or not(and they sometimes are).