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Okay, so here it is. This is, from left to right, an ETC S4 ParNel lamped with a 750w extended life lamp and zoomed down to 25 degrees, an Opti Tri with 54w of Tri-LED power, a Design LED 36 without the frost filter in with 36x1w LEDs, an Opti 30 RGB with 12x1w LEDs, and a P56 LED with 181 10mm LEDs. All lights were aimed with the hot spot pointed at the top of the door and as close to the wall as possible.

First up is all lights on white, trying to match the ParNel 'white':

As seen, the ParNel easily beats everything. The two lights closest to 'white' are the Opti Tri and the Opti 30 RGB. The P56 LED is very, very blue and the DLED36 without the frost has a ton of color shadow issues as shown.

Next up is red, ParNel in R27:

The Opti Tri keeps up extremely well with the ParNel here, and the shades of red are all extremely close.

Next is blue, ParNel in R85:

As seen, the blues are even closer intensity wise. This is also the P56 LED's strongest color, besides green but I didn't do green comparison.

Next is Amber for Color shadows, R21 on the ParNel. Tried to match the LEDs as close as possible:

The Opti Tri and DLED36 came closest to matching the R21 of the ParNel. Color shadow wise, the DLED36 without frost is by far the worst. The Opti Tri has almost no color shadows. The only odd thing is about 8 inches or so away from the light is random specs of red, blue, and green. It is not a big deal since it is so low, past the 8 inches there are no color shadows.

Last up is all the lights in full on:

As seen, the Opti Tri and Opti 30 RGB are very similar in hue. The DLED36 is pinkish, red towards the edges without the frost. The P56 LED is again, very blue as in the first photo. For some reason, the blue LEDs over power the red and green.

All and all, I can safely say that a DLED108 or DLED36 Pro will match and go color for color with the 750w extended life ParNel, maybe even a standard life version (About 6-7000 more lumen then the extended life version). Cost wise, the LEDs still aren't the way to go. They are, however, now powerful enough to go up against halogens.
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Would you like to see a PS575 IE vs DS575 E then? I can do that for you next week after this show I am working on this week.

Next time I have a big show I can try and do like mover vs like mover. I have seen/done PS700 CMY vs Mac 700 before, but didn't take photos. I also did Impression vs PS 575 IE and have photos of that.

I can also ask a few friends to borrow some things like Studio Spot 250s and PS250s after I pick up a few DS250s that I want/need since I am doing more and more college large scale parties/national acts.
That's about as fair of a shootout as we're gonna see on here.

The strange thing is that the Par56 LED is showing up so blue. Not to question too much, but I wonder what filtering the camera may have been doing. Then again, maybe those blues are overpowering in that fixture.

Overall, it's apparent the 56 LED couldn't "hang" with the rest.
None actually. Was a Cannon 8MP camera with quality and resolution set to the highest.

As you can see in the 'white' photos, the ParNel looks white, or slightly amber like it should since the color temperature is 3050k. For some reason, the P56 was pretty much always blue in hue. When I tried to match the color temperature of the S4, once the blue got to a certain intensity, the light turned too amber. Adding the slightest bit of blue back in again, it turned blue. Very strange, but the other P56s I got with the order all do the same thing color wise, so its not just a bad fixture.

This is also very strange since green is suppose to be the strongest color and red the weakest color on the P56. With that in mind, I would expect a more cyan looking white, instead it was blue, blue, or blue. I will have to get it out and look at it in more detail when I get the chance. I was also using the Hog's color wheel to do this, which means 0-360 degrees of Hue selection with 0-100% for saturation. That is 36,461 color choices.
What Canon you using? I got an 8 megapixel S5IS, which seems to suit my needs. Then again, as we alll know by now, I'm an audio guy.

I am wondering if LED's work on "perception" rather than any other concept? Hear me out. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I recall seeing on TV or reading that our eyes are most sensitive to green. Maybe that's why the green wasn't as bright.

Still, I tend to think more old mindset. "This color should this THIS color."

I think maybe the LED's need more "throw" so the different LED's can merge together to form that beam. But that can't totally be true since you're showing another LED and it seems to be doing just fine. I guess it's also a design thing.
You are on the right track. All lights have a color temperature from 0 to let's say 15000 Kelvin. This temperature represents what color a black body radiator would be at that temperature Kelvin, or simply put a piece of iron. 1500k is red, 2000k-3500k is orange to light amber, 4000k-4500k is pure white, 5000k to 8000k is light to slightly darker shades of blue, 10,000k being blue and 12,000k and up turning purple.

Now, pure white, the brightest output a light source can have, is between 4-4.5k. This is great for gels, because light is filtered evenly. Arc lamps tend to be 5-8k, slightly blue in nature. Because of this, they do blues well, but aren't so great at reds. Halogens are 2.5-3.2k (3.2k being a standard life HPL, one of the reasons it is such a bright, efficient lamp). They tend to do oranges and reds better then blues and purples.

Now the human eye actually reacts to blue the most. This is the reason when it is dark, we perceive things as blue. This is also the reason why when you think of night as a color, it is blue and also the reason why lighting designers in shows use blues to represent night. Most lights used during shows are still halogens. So perceived white is in the 3k range. Add something like a 7.5k arc source and it looks much brighter next to the halogen and blue in tint since 'white' is 3k now. For example, a 250w arc lamp puts out 20k lumen, a standard life HPL 750w has the same lumen output. The 250w arc looks 'brighter' do to perception. We absorb more blue, there for it seems brighter despite the fact it really isn't.

Now this is the same thing with a DS300 vs a DS575. The 575 lamp has a lower color temperature, so at short distances, the lamps appear to have similar outputs. However, drop the same color into both lights and you will then get the real story about which is outputting more light. Once color is added, our perception of white changes again and when can then see things for what they really are. Drop CTO in that 250w arc lamp and get the color temperature down to 3.2k and both sources will look the same intensity wise.

Another quick example, a friend on mine rented 2 of my PS575s while his PS250s were getting repaired. At first, he thought the intensity difference wasn't that much until it was long throw distances. But once he had them out and started putting color in them, he realized how much brighter the 575s really are over the 250s.

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