Gemsound Sub-Woofer 20

BASS not base. I can see why you're blowing stuff up.

What you might want to do is design a fully flown mini-line array using flown subs. Say, 2 subs per angle with 4 "tops" in the same hang, with 4 total hangs. Go with the QSC self-powered Wideline 8" stuff with the 15" subs and use an RTA and dial it in. Hang them at 90 degree from each other evne though they have a 120-degree horizonal coverage pattern. You'll want to really give a good arc there, say 5 to 7 degrees per cabinet as you want to get the top ones aimed to the edges or outside, and the bottom ones aimed towards the inside of the rink. You'll want to ensure you have permanent rigging points and do this all from the center of the ring. And just to be a cheesy set up, DO hang that 20" mirror ball a couple of feet below the speakers!

You're going to want at least 3000-watts of power for your subs. I know. I do an event at a roller rink and I push 3200-watts to my double 15 subs(1600-watts each) and that is JUST getting it, along with 900 to each of my tops. Good coverage and it's going from ONE of the rink to the food court and beyond with super consistent coverage. I do sound for these gospel skate nights.

My idea costs more, and gives better coverage and consistentency. If you want, you can instead of flying them from the center, you can corner stack them.

Note, a lot of guys buy cheap speakers and amps. Trust me after a couple of weeks, you're gonna end up with some sore ears and headaches. Step up a bit. You need higher power because you're in a sizable environment. MORE isn't necessarily the way to go, it's more a matter of "What's right for the space".

The center hang gives you one centralized location for everything.

Since the QSC stuff is self powered and relatively small footprint, it's a lot of bang for the package.

Thank you for the reply. Could you send me some links to these products that you mentioned?

I will be fixing all of the bad speakers with new crossovers. The components rattled of the boards. So I bought new crossover for $25.00 each from the manufacture.

So I only really need the Subs. However, I do not want any headaches with these. If I have to invest in a better sub-woofer, I will. But that amp is critical.

Do they make a 4000 watt amp? If so, would this be better if I am up grading to 1500 watt subs?

Again, if you could recommend some better than normal stuff, that would be great.

Thanks for your help
Rob

If you have cross-overs that have fried, most likely you've got some driver damage as well. I think it's time to retire tohse and start fresh. Trying to salvage what you've got is costly.

Got to QSC's web site.

Honestly, your buying enough subs to run a 4000-watt amp off it in bridged mono down to 2-ohms is foolish. This isn't just a matter of "well, I'll just add subs", you also have to think how they are going to sum and work together as one logigistal unit despite being sepparate units.

Now, I could go recommend 2 KV2 Audio EX 2.5's, which are the full active version of my active driven ES 2.5's, but you need an Epack 2500 to run the ES 2.5's and a top speaker, the 3-way ES 1.0. The difference is that with active driven, it's proprietary OUTSIDE the box, where-as with active, it's part of the box. I'm not going to get into any further theoreticals as to which is better or not.

If you go active, you run your signal cables to the gear, no speaker runs. You do need power and plenty of it, but it's all terminating in one small location.

If you're going to get subs and install them near your higher-range speakers, you're just going to end up with hot spots and dead spots. You're best off just putting a big stack in each corner then.

But if you want to get a single 4000-watt amp, that's no guarantee it's going to provide you wiht what you've got. I think the PL series by QSC as well as some of the higher end Crowns and Crests will do you pretty good, but better be prepared to shell it out. You can get a QSC RMX 4040 and run that down to 2 ohms solid and get a ot of bang for the buck, but I forget the power ratings.

It's NOT just the amp. It's a component of a larger system. It' also NOT just the subwoofers, whic again are components of the whole system. We're talkng efficiency and how you intend to integrate and implement them. I see too many rinks were they just start tossing gear around and excuse my language, but it sounds like ass. And I see you taking that route right now.

You're gonna have headaches, period. You might be better off with 2 lower-powered amplifiers and some double 15-cabs. Trust me, you're not going to need double 18's, it's not worth it. Run an amp per side, drop each side down to 4 ohms. Repeat on the other side of the rink with identical gear and amp. Make sure you have external cross-overs as well as you'll want to determine what to send to the subwoofer amps and what the top amps get. Sure, you could do mono on each amp and bridge it and then run it down to 2 ohms, considering 4 8-ohm subs per amp.

Of course you can always go more amps, each amp being smaller, but running fewer speakers. Say, 4 amps of 1200-1600 watts each in bridged mono at 4 ohms. Not a bad move, often gives you a bit more overhead. But will your subs handle it? Overpowering is better than underpowering, but are we talking close capacities? We don't to extremely overpower the subs either.

You need a professional in there and see what is going on. If you don't, I will guarantee you will be wasting money no matter how you go.