Do I need another controller?

If I recall, those lights are simply on or off. You'll want to purchase RELAY(not dimmer) packs to use with those light fixtures.

You can still use your DMX controller, then program your relay pack or packs to the appropriate channel numbers and then you can turn the fixtures on/off by way of the relay packs.

I do this all the time. I have the Sunray III, the Mystic, Vertigo, Barrel Flex, Reflex, Electra, Rover II, Trilogy and Double Twist lights, and this is how I turn them on and off.

The main thing is to make sure you do not exceed the power rating per outlet and relay pack unit. Pay attention to both or you'll want to stock replacement fuses, which is wise anyways.

With 192 DMX channels, it should grow with you unless you just physically can't work within the limitations of the unit anymore. I've had mine for 3 years and it's still massive over-kill for me, yet at the same time, I'm just now getting into learning to program it. I mean, I see much better units on a constant basis, stuff used on tours and the like. For me, despite being a professional sound company, this controller far exceeds my requirements. I'm a sound guy, what do you expect?

Thanks Chris. So with what you are suggesting, then I guess that Elation DP-415 will do the job. The major thing that I have to worry about is the amp and voltage of each outlet will draw.

I will keep some fuses just in case.

But do you do chase sequence for your lights or do you actually just let use the sound activation instead.

Thanks again.

Dont turn on and off the fixtures by sound they should never turn on and off faster than 10 second cycles. So make a program for them

Thanks for your reply and advice noted. But what Relay can I get that will fill the needs? And also I do not think that I can program these lights anyway because it si only good for on/off switches only. Can I actually program the chase sequence usint the DMX Operator 192. I am not an expert by any strecth of imagination. So please specify and will be very much appreciated. Thanks.

You'll want at least the PP-DMX20L relay pack.

I also agree with Support about not chasing your effect lights quick. Seems common sense to me.

What I plan to do is build many duplicate chases, each based around a different centerpeice or set of effects being left ON during the sequence. So, I might end up creating 20 scenes(or more) using different ParCan combinations and intensities, but keep the same centerpiece light(or other effects) on in each scene. Then string those together as a chase.

I also plan to chart my scense and chases on paper.

My concept gets around multiple issues that Support brings up. First off, while chases, my effect light doesn't cycle, it stays on. This avoids quick cycling effect lights. Second, multiple chases featuring different centerpieces or effect lights allows quick access to the fixtures at all times while at the same time allowing me to over-ride the par can lighting settings if necessary. OK, well, the scenes are more critical for this one, but hey, it does address a problem I ran into based on the limitation of the unit and on the fly configurations.

All of this can be done in the DMX Operator 192. Chases require scenes to be created. Chases are built from a collection of scenes. I intend to have my scenes "dance" to the music using the microphone in the DMX Operator(mine is pre 192, I bought in 2001, same thing, just looks different).

Now, the manual isn't all that wonderful, so that might have changed. I just received the operations DVD(thanks, Support!!!) but don't have time right now to go through it. But I'm a relatively intelligent guy. I figured out my previous problem. My Operator wasn't saving anything since the manual didn't state how to get OUT of programming mode, which was the same way how to get IN to programming mode. So, my fear of my unit not saving are now a thing of the past: it is in fact saving scenese. I haven't programmed chases yet. That's another time.

My objectives for tomorrow are to buy sufficient quantity of replacement fuses(4 for each fuse location, that's gonna be a LOT of fuses for me) and some other hardware store parts to facilitate setup and teardown being quicker.

Overall, despite the limitations I ran into, I have learned how to get around those issues. For a relatively inexpensive and simplistic controller, this thing has a lot of bang for the buck. I really have not been utilizing all that this device can do and now that I'm starting to get into programming it, I'm really cracking the surface here. This is definately a piece of gear I won't soon outgrow.