Big Shot and DP-DMX-20L issues

Strobes are never intended to work on a dimmer pack. they will always blink. the switching power pack will work with the strobe. you shouldn't run any effect lights on a dimmer pack. you need a switching pack it will solve the problem.

So, it appears I need to run out to my retailer and purchase an Aviator-SP8. Am I correct? With 8 channels, I can run a few other things off that as well.

That appears to me that this item will resolve a few additional issues I am working on as well. Put my Par38's and 36's on the dimmer packs for more control, then the rest on the switching pack. That works pretty darn well for my scenario, leaving me room for future expansion. Seems like a good fit.

Still working on the stinky fog issue. Been running it as frequently as possible today. Still smelly. I can't tell if I'm getting used to it or if it's decreasing. I'll ask my wife when she gets home. It will be nice to see inside the garage again!

email me joey@americandj.com

I will in a bit. I'm going to give that fog machine a few more cycles(run it until it stops and then wait and try again).

I should make sure I walk straight so the neighbors don't think I'm running a pot-house!

I'm going to pick up that switcher pack most likely next week so I can get it programmed up. I'm anxious to get started with that. Thanks. Should be a special order item but I have no shows coming up quick, so that's OK with me. More time to wrap cables in order to erradicate snagglies!

Support was probably going to mention this to you, but for the benefit of the board:

The reason your strobe will not correctly respond is a result of how dimmers work. A modern dimmer will "chop up" the AC Waveform and only allow certain ammounts to pass though. Conventional lighting fixtures do not care about this, they operate just fine with a chopped up waveform (dimmed). Strobes on the other hand require a clean waveform. At 100% on a dimmer, you are getting a somewhat untouched waveform, but it is still possible to get one that is incomplete.

A relay pack will solve this problem providing the strobe's electronics are okay.

-Griffin

BTW, thank you for the detailed explanation of your problem! It really makes it quite a bit easier to give solutions to.

-Griffin

I like to be as complete as possible. Working as a technician, I hate having my time wasted, so I try to be as thorough as possible to help those who are helping me.

Now, I do have a question, just to ensure I purchase the proper item.

First off, I get what a dimmer pack is: it increases/decreasest current, allowing a light to shine brighter or less bright(or off). Makes sense.

So, I take it a relay pack is merely a bank of on/off assigned outlets, in which it is either on or off, but never in an in-between state? The reason I ask is that there is a sizable price difference between the switcher pack(Aviator-SP8) and a relay pack(PP-DMX20L?), at least listed via this web site.

I have to think logistics of setting up my lights as well and the idea of splitting up the load across multiple units is appealing, despite being more expensive. If I have a DP-DMX20L on each end of the truss to control 3 Par38s and a Par 36(per side), then a PP-DMX20L in the middel of each half of the truss to control the other items in the simple lighting rig, that might provide the easiest solution, despite that an Aviator-SP8 would do the same task in a centralized solution at a lesser cost. I also have to take the two folks who set up my lights for me into consideration as they are not always as detail oriented as I would prefer. I might need to purchase some AC extensions to simplify things. That's OK, I'm having a pair of banners made for the truss to advertise my sound company as well as to cover up the cable clutter that goes inside the truss.

All my lights are going to end up on 1 15-amp circuit anyways(well, hopefully). Most venues typically have been unable to provide me with 60 amps via 4 15-amp circuits anyways in order to properly provide enough power for everything. I typically do get by just fine though as I am working assuming maximum draw. My main mix position is supposed to draw 12.5 amps, but it really pulls abouty 7.5 amps max with everything cranking and digital audio recording with 2 hard drives.

Best I can tell, the strobe's electronics are OK.

Sounds like once I get a clear answer on the appropriate item(s) to purchase, I can take the next step.

To my knowlege, the Aviator Pack is the same switching scheme as the PP-DMX-20L... both untilize relays. I'm not sure of the street price for either of the units, but it does seem that the Aviator would be the better choice as it would give you several more channels for just a bit more cash.

-Griffin

Thank you. That answers my question completely. A relay pack is merely a set of on/off outlets, so the switcher pack is just a larger relay pack.

While I am in full agreement that the Aviator switcher is the better deal, logistically, it might not be the best fit. My audience is rather odd. They are often rather shallow at all surface, no substance. The look of the Aviator hanging way low from the truss might be a "turn-off", whereas the lower profile of the relay pack gives a better overall appearance.

Then again, they keep hiring the other sound companies with garbage gear and do a horrific job(OK, persistent feedback at a DJ-only event with no microphones, hello!), so I guess what do they know. My system and my skills have a good rep. I'll dink around with the existing dimmer packs to get an estimate on how much hang the Aviator is going to show. I'll be making a decision and purchase this week. Either 1 Aviator or two relay packs.

Agian, thanks for your time and efforts.

Of course, you could also hang it laterally, so that it is more "sideways" on the truss.

-Griffin

Now I'm angry.

I have my Aviator SP8, had it for a couple of weeks. As per norm, I work 100+ hours a week so I can't just get into things right as they get in. Inventorying of things takes time.

So, I have time today, about 3 hours to be precise. I've hung the Aviator SP8 on the truss and hooked up the Big Shot strobe on this sucker. Well, guess what? It is behaving exactly the same as the DIMMER pack. I have the channel OFF and the Big Shot is still slowly strobing. Electrical performance is IDENTICAL to that of the dimmer pack in the pack off or even channel off positions.

I'm starting to look like a moron. I spend close to $250 to get proper functionality for a $25 strobe(OK, maybe the strobe costs more, I'm just ranting) and I'm still NO CLOSER to a working result.

So, let's look at the SP8's config real fast:
First, I set the first DMX channel to 9, this is confirmed good. I set it up to be an 8-channel controller. This is ALSO confirmed good, as when I push Shift on the DMX Operator on Scanner 1, I see the appropriate channel usage light indicators pop ON corresponding to the faders I am using.

I have all 8 channels set like this:
L-1o
L-2o
L-3o
L-4o
L-5o
L-6o
L-7o
L-8o
Setting the "o" to "F" does produce a full ON effect, which is clearly what I don't want.

Seems the SP-8 has some identity problems.
Page 5 of the printed manual states:
"The Aviator-SP8 is a 8 channel switch pack,"

Yet Page 1, bullet 3 states:
"* Serves as 1,2,4, and 8 dimmer pack depending on your setting"

No online manual is currently available for my cross-referencing purposes.

Both AC cables are plugged into a single circuit, which for now is fine since the only three things I am using for testing is a PL1000 Pin Spot, an 8RMP Mirror Ball Motor with an 8-inch Mirror Ball(All ADJ), and this Big Shot Strobe.

So, understandably, I am now also justifyably angry.
I've also discovered some other issues in my lighting rig that are just plain not acceptable right now in regards to the DMX Operator and how scanners are actually handled, but this will be resolved through expansion and proper planning of where lights terminate, so I am going to drop that issue for a while. I think a REAL Switching/relay pack will address those concerns. It might be the fact that I've outgrown my DMX Operator already and need something more advanced, but again, those are issues for another posting.

Do I need a different strobe? Or then what the heck am I doing wrong? I purchased the Aviator SP8 being told by Support I needed a switching pack, and the web site clearly stating:
(From the "Controller Products/Packs" page)
Aviator-SP8� Switching Power Pak (Nn Dimming)

Hmm. Interesting. Granted, I've been reading English my whole life, but doesn't that state that this is a switching pack?

I've got a show in a week, and thank goodness it appears I don't need lights since it is in a theater with a big lighting rig already. But I still need to get through this big ugly problem.

What are my options? Do I need a different strobe? If so, please what ADJ strobe should I be using?
Do I need to replace or augment my existing 2 DP-DMX20L's and Aviator-SP8 with yet another pack?

Here's what I got:
I have an outdated picture located through this page:
Giang Tien Audio, Pictures.

I have an LTS50 style T-stand/10" truss system.
On each T stand, I put a single DP-DMX20L, 3 Par38BL's and a PL1000, each on their own channel, with the PL1000 being on 4.
Both sides are done identical. I want to be able to power on and off each light fixture, depending on where musicians are or to set moods, despite not using gels.
In the middle of the truss, I mount the SP8. On Channel 1 I have a SunRay III. On Channel 2 I intend to mount a Mystic, coming in any day now.
I also have a the above mentioned mirror ball motor/8" ball combo. The PL1000's are aimed at the mirror ball. I like to sometimes light one side, then the other, the both on the mirror ball. I also have an Electra and a Reflex, which I intend to put on sepparate channels.
So, just dinking around:
Sunray III on Channel 1
Mystic on Channel 2
Mirror ball/motor Channel 3
Electra on Channel 4
Reflex on Channel 5
This leaves channels 6 open, planning a Rover II for that, and Channel 7 for a Barrel Flex. This leaves Channel 8 for a strobe.

Now, I am planning for 2 more Par38's on the truss to enhance center stage lighting, which would end up being on a single channel and full on/off is just fine.

I also have a Double Twist and a Trilogy.
For the dance floor area, I intend the following lights:
Electra, Rover II, Reflex, Barrel Flex, strobe, Double Twist and Trilogy. So these all can end up on a sepparate pack or packs. The strobe isn't meant to do much more than attract some attention from time to time or maybe perk up the atmostphere, it won't be used a lot.

I also want to be able to control each figures individually, or at least be able to toggle them on and off(where applicable) or dim them(again, where applicable), regardless of what scanner bank they are on.

Let me get a whole solution here. I can sell some stuff and replace other things. My main limitation at the moment is that I only have 3 rack spaces available for a DMX controller to use replace the DMX Operator I am currently using. I don't care about my saved scenes, but I think that is something I may have to start using as well, which is fine. For example, if I select Scanner 1, Channel 1, that is a Par38 right now.
If I select Scanner 2 and turn off the Scanner 1 button, my Channel 1 will drop and then I only have what's on Scanner 2 available to me. I want to avoid that. MIDI control is a plus as I can control things from my ProTools mobile rig when I take some time to learn that. That looked rather simple.

Sorry for carrying on.

Maybe I should get a consultant. I'm tired of set backs, time wasting and money wasting. I have a small business to run. I know the ADJ product line will meet my requirements.

Sorry to rant and rave for so long. This is becoming a real problem and stressful so thanks for bearing with me. I gotta admit that overall I am happy with the products