American DJ Haze Generator *UPDATED*

Sorry but I don't see any sort of DMX option for this unit.
if you want DMX sorry to say, but look at Antari hazers on the Elation website.
http://www.elationlighting.com...Id=1&Category=Antari
Sincerely,

No DMX option for that unit, it's in, or rather NOT IN the manual.

The Antari HZ-300 is super affordable, and kicks butt AND has DMX!

Hey Jingles quick question for you. Do you know what the pin out is on the HC-1 Controller? Like what the tip does, the ring does, and the sleeve does? Also is it like a normal fog machine timer remote in the sense it takes Line voltage to the controller then from the controller back to the motor.

Because I had something in mind for this if it is possible.
There are little electronic dmx relay kits that when above a certain value turns on the device, when under that value it is off.
This is what I am talking aboutDMX Relay.

If you don't know the pin out on hand, Is it possible to find it out?

I have No idea what ANY of that is. lol. I'm a lighting guy. Not a fog/Electronics expert :P
Let me see if I can find out.
Sincerely,

I was just told. The tip ring sleeve just closes the circuit. We don't have any further documentation. and we don't recommend modifying it also.
Sincerely,

I am not a fogging expert either but that is why I was asking.
The only reason why I was asking was because I had a cheap $40 fogger that ended out crapping on me. So I gutted it to make a pump for making homemade neon signs(rubber tube, blacklight, neon highlighter, water). But the way the controller is routed is a split off the L or Hot wire from the fuse to the L on the iec male connector and Neutral to E on the iec connector.

Ya.....You already lost me after "the way the controller is routed." lol.
That's cool. but sorry we don't have much details on the fogger remote.
Sincerely,

I wouldn't use those with your fogger or hazer to get the type of functionality you are after, as those are switched power relays, that work with a signal converter(the DMX side).

I mean, really, let's look at a few numbers:

To get the ADJ hazer, based on the ADJ MSRP of $599.95(it's listed that way on the ADJ web site), and then to convert it to DMX via way of some method, well, as cool as that sounds, why not entertain the following option:

Starting with the ADJ MSRP for the ADJ Hazer, you're looking at rough street prices for the Antari HZ-300. I have one of these, and I gotta say, I love this unit. I was very anti-fog for years, and now having this thing since 2009, I honestly don't know how I was able to function with lighting without it!! It supports DMX, comes with a wired remote with a relatively long cable(I've never uncoiled it but I have used it),and for me I required it work with water-based haze, which this unit can do, as well as use oil-based haze. Oil-based fluids tend to irritate my eyes, as well as many of the cast and crew I work with(lots wear contacts, I wear glasses), but oil-based hangs better, or so I've been told froms several reputable sources I trust.

Also, not to knock brands, because these are all under the same umbrella of companies, the Antari unit is a much better unit. my HZ-300 works fantastic in a 600-seat venue that I often use it for. For what you're talking, it's also the right tool for the job, which is really what it should be about.

I think instead of waiting for it to ship, you should cancel the order and get the Antari unit instead.

I think the cost difference between trying to re-fit a lower-cost unit vs. buying an already suitably equiped unit is not a wise idea and will end up costing more in the long run.

That's my opinion.

I spent a fair amount of time researching foggers and hazers. I asked about the ADJ one, and unfortunately, none of the people I talked to who had experience with it did not like it that much. Similarly, I was interested in the Chauvet hazer because it stated it was compatible with water-based haze fluid, but when it came to asking around about it, people didn't seem to like this unit either, even people and users who were normally pro-Chauvet. I have some Chauvet stuff, some I love, some I don't exactly have the same kindness for. I am not bashing Chauvet, but hearing the same thing from 20 or more people with these, it didn't make me feel warm and fuzzy about it. But the same thing was true for the ADJ product too, which is unusual, for both brands to not be well received on a similar product.

IN 2009, I started with this producer on another event and it made sense to buy a hazer, but I knew I'd need remote control, and couldn't rely on anyone else but me, so it had to work with DMX and had to work with water-based haze fluid. Overall, I've been pleased with ADJ fixtures, and Elation and ADJ are under the same umbrella, and so is Antari. When asking around about hazers, Antari was a brand that came up a lot with lots of positive things to say about it. I think I was warned that this unit is not great for super large rooms unless you really prime the room far in advance of normal, but these were for room sizes I don't do often and I'm more concerned about covering the stage area anyways. Of course, you can't control fog and haze once you set it free!

Sure, you can try some other options to retrofit your hazer to be DMX compatible. You could also risk damaging your hazer, or even destroying the electronics that work with the remote and void your warranty. I'd rather see you spend $200 or so more and get the HZ-300 and just have an easy, elegant and superior product that should far outlast and outperform the ADJ Hazer.

I don't think ADJ will mind me recommendin the Antari product over the ADJ offering, as well as having a slightly negative thing to say about a competitor's product.

As far as a business decision, this was spot-on for me. The HZ-300 is a fine machine!

Well too late on waiting before it ships. It reaches me tomorrow. But the ADJ Haze Generator is like an almost exact copy of the Antari HZ-100 (I could be wrong on this, so please point it out if I am).

Just right now what I spent for the ADJ Haze Generator was just under $500 including shipping. So it was a great investment for me. Unfortunately for me I live in Hawaii so everything is shipping for me. Not many local lighting/dj stores down here which is lame. But I am digressing here.

That dmx relay unit should work according to specs on it. It also only cost like $50 or so depending where I get it from. They way I was going to do it is: Get the dmx relay kit slap it in a box.; Wire the relay for the switch to be able to use different types of foggers/hazers.; Since it self terminates the line that would be awesome.

I don't see any Antari HZ-100.

Well, regardless, give us a report how it works out for you with that relay, which, by the way, is a power relay. You want to keep your hazer ON all night, then trigger it when necessary, so ideally, you want something that plugs int the remote control port.

Ok Chris or Jingles or anyone that can chyme in on this.
If you might have this tool in your inventory. Do you have a no-contact voltage tester? It looks like a pen and beeps when the tip is close to Line voltage.
Pictures:




If you have one of these can you do a test for me. The test plug in your fog machine and your haze machine. Plug in both remotes. Make sure the remote cord and power cord are not close to each other. First test the power cord see if your tester picks it up. Next test the remote cord.
If I am correct about it it should start buzzing/beeping and lighting up. That means that there is Line voltage going to the controller.

Now I could be totally wrong on this and that is why I need you to test it for me. So I can learn from my mistake.

I got one of these. If time permits(and it probably won't), I will try this out on my Antari ICE-101 ground fogger tomorrow. My HZ-300 is boxed up and I don't feel like unpacking it, plus since the conditions of my garage are cramped, and I gotta move stuff tomorrow, it just ain't happening.

But if I have time while doing a water change in one of my fish tanks(this one has a pH problem but it's scheduled for a weekly water change anyways), I'll see what I can do. I might have the time.

There are LED's on the remotes, so there should be SOME power. Your test shows there is a LIVE electrical connection, not necessarily the presence of line level voltage.

Also the relays you showed above were to recieve a DMX signal and then open up t0 8Amps of 120V/60Hz AC to a circuit. I seriously doubt the remote port wants to see that much juice coming its way. I bet it's more along the lines of =/- 5V, 12V DC max.

Also, while we're on the topic:
These testers are fairly affordable. I got one at Home Depot for like $12. There is another outlet tester you can get with GFI testing for around $18 at the most for the "top of the line one". Both of these are affordable and in my opinion, MUST HAVE items to carry around. A battery tester, multi-meter and a clamp-type ammeter are also must haves. If you still got funds left over, a cable tester is also a critical tool, the more cables it can test the better!

First off I just want to say Thank You Chris

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Pickett:
There are LED's on the remotes, so there should be SOME power. Your test shows there is a LIVE electrical connection, not necessarily the presence of line level voltage.

I was testing with a voltage meter and the volts was at 117-120vac. Like I said I think all machines have a split off the mains power (both hot and neutral) coming in to route to the controller then back to the heater and thermo-resistor. Again I could be wrong on this but it is what I see a lot on the extremely cheap fog fixtures.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Pickett:
Also the relays you showed above were to recieve a DMX signal and then open up t0 8Amps of 120V/60Hz AC to a circuit. I seriously doubt the remote port wants to see that much juice coming its way. I bet it's more along the lines of =/- 5V, 12V DC max.

This is why I want to test it first on some cheapo fog machine. But if it works that means I will use it. There is another way for me to do this though. By buying a 125vac/10a relay from like radio shack (or other electronic store). The way that relay would work is I wire and extension cord to the relay 120vac coils. Next wire a connector (either iec male or 1/4" Stereo) to the Normally Open contacts of the relay. Plug the extension cord into a dimmer pack and ta-da instant DMX capable fogger/hazer.
But I do see the drawbacks of using it the second way like for example, I will be running three cords to the Haze/Fog machine rather than just two. Also I probably would need to buy a extra dimmer pack (I have on already but you never know). Also this setup would be a lot bulkier than the previous.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Pickett:
Also, while we're on the topic:
These testers are fairly affordable. I got one at Home Depot for like $12. There is another outlet tester you can get with GFI testing for around $18 at the most for the "top of the line one". Both of these are affordable and in my opinion, MUST HAVE items to carry around. A battery tester, multi-meter and a clamp-type ammeter are also must haves. If you still got funds left over, a cable tester is also a critical tool, the more cables it can test the better!

I totally agree here. I actually have had this multi electrical tool set from Gardner Bender I bought a while a go. It has GFI Receptacle Tester (I also have a spare in my audio bag), Dual Telephone Line Tester, Digital Multimeter 5 Functions - 18 Ranges, and a Circuit Alert Non-Contact Voltage Detector (Except I replaced it with a GreenLee GT-11 Voltage Detector). As for a cable tester. I have a basic Behringer CT-100(a complete knock-off of a Ebtech SWIZZ-CT Cable Tester 6 in 1). But I was wanting to upgrade to the cable tester that does almost everything - JACKAROO (SMP-JKR-1) Multifunction Test Device. But right now it is on my wish list as well as another Elation Optobranch4/Branch4 as well as an Elation DMX2512R.

Okay I should have the Haze Generator in a couple hours. Hopefully. If I had UPS it would have been here 4 hours ago, but alas I have FedEx and they make sure they deliver at around 7pm HST. Not looking for the wait. First thing I am going to do is build that cheap relay that would plug into a dimmer pack. RadioShack here I come.

OK, it's not an "appples to apples" comparison, but this is what I did based on what was convenient:

I plugged in my ICE-101, and plugged in the remote to the ICE-101, and I ran the voltagate detector on the power cable and sure enough as we would both expect: power.

Now here's the part you're not going to like:
I also ran it the remove in circles in both directions on both sides and over a large area, and the voltage detector did not detect anything.

So, I think ya blowed up a bit of gear. And I think if you continue along the path you're going, you're going to fry your new hazer as well.

Really, please just lose this idea you're after. You're looking at the wrong gear and planning to send raw AC down a signal line. With hazers, you often can just wire it up with the remote and dial-up what you want, and then forget it the rest of the night.

In my case, FedEx likes to arrive at 7AM, and UPS at 3:10PM.

I now official disclaim any responsibility or liability for what happens next. I've now advised 3 times to NOT do what the poster is trying to do. I again, I recommend that this relay building NOT take place. It's not as simply as that, there is some communications involved. PLEASE call Tech Support before you do anything, they may actually know of something that would take care of this task for you and do it both properly and safely. At lesat give them a call!

Ok I won't try it yet. I will do a lot more research on it before I continue. I have to wait till I get fluid anyway.

Also not necessarily do all relays switch power some just activate a switch, the same as pushing a manual button on the remote control.

But for now I am going to stop and chill because FedEx is starting to piss me off. It is already 5:53pm HST and no sign of it anywhere.

Okay good news it finally came at 6:15pm HST. Woohoo. Also tested the voltage tester on the remote wire and guess what there is voltage.

Well, the previous set of relays you showed were power relays.

You're going to want to at least be able to get something that will emulate the signal to the hazer via the remote at say 75%(so it can run for extended periods). Why the need to have DMX control on this hazer?

Well the relay I showed you also is just a switch or power relay. It doesn't need line voltage to run because it runs off of a 12vdc wall wart. The line voltage is for lamps or so.

The reason I wanted DMX control is so I can I have the Hazer on stage and at the push of a button from FOH I can turn the Hazer on. And when the button is released it turns off.

Well, hazers are typically a set and forget type of fogger. You know it's a thin, continuous fog, right? There's no fog blast. They tend to be run all night.

You might see about making an extension for the remote and talk to Tech Support about maximum distance issues. I think that might be a wiser way to go.

I love my American DJ Haze Generator. It is one awesome piece of equipment. My bedroom is about 10' x 15' and it filled the room entirely within about 2 minutes. Now my lights look awesome with it.

Okay update on the relay thing. I bought a cheap NO/NC 125vac relay as well as a TRS 1/4" Connector from RadioShack.

A relay is a simple electromechanical switch made up of an electromagnet and a set of contacts.
Normally-open (NO) contacts connect the circuit when the relay is activated; the circuit is disconnected when the relay is inactive.
Normally-closed (NC) contacts disconnect the circuit when the relay is activated; the circuit is connected when the relay is inactive.

Tutorial Part
I grabbed an old two prong extension cord, cut it in half, and cut off the female end.
Okay the relay has a total of eight contacts. Two for 125vac, and the others because it is a DPDT, so two pins for common, two pins for NC, and two pins for NO.
I soldered the wire with the plug attached to the 125vac relay. I then soldered the other cut wire to the TRS connector disabling the sleeve, because the switch activates on tip and ring. After soldering to the TRS connector I then soldered to the NC contacts on the relay, that way when the power is inactive the switch is open, power on it activates switch.
I then tested to make sure no voltage or current was coming from the relay switch side. Testing to make sure it does what I wanted it to do. Which it did. I then proceeded to plug it in to my dimmer pack. Before plugging it in my Haze Generator. I tested on the pack.
Now at this point I plugged it in to my Haze Generator and put a small 4" fan right in front of the have machine. Plugged both the relay and the small fan into the dimmer/switch pack. Set the DMX address to 1 and made sure it was in switch mode. Powered on everything. Used my Chauvet DMX-70 to control.
It worked exactly as I thought it would. Tried it with the fan. I did find one drawback though with the relay. It does not like dimmer power, it either has to be all on or all off, really does not like anything in between so that is why I said switch pack.

So as of right now I have a pain in the butt relay that is controllable via DMX switch pack