I'd rather slit my wrists and bleed out all over my A&H ML5000 console than be called a DJ. But DJ's around here get all the work, stinking up one venue after another with sound that, if it were to merely suck, would be 20 levels of improvement over what they are doing. I flat out WILL not compete with trash. When someone asks for DJ work, I simply pass. In my case, it's a guarantee of disaster. They want fast, cheap and I don't do either. And regardless, the are going to complain, so why bother? And I won't clean up after them either. I got 20 calls last month to take jobs for cheap at the last second because their DJ bailed on them. I just say "sorry, but that's really not my concern. It's going to cost you what my normal rate is, and you can take it or leave it". When they pull the "better than making no money" card, I say, "you're right. I'm gonna stay home and watch TV than bust my hump for 8 hours for a crappy $150". Diesel ain't cheap, I got crew to pay, and even if the event itself is 3 hours, I got 3 hours of load-in and set with line, sound and monitor check(and lighting), the event itself and then a 2+ hour strike and load-out.
So, I say let them eat their trash. I'm catering to a higher end marketplace. I won't do DJ work.
I'm not an electrician, but a 15 amp circuit(this is remedial, so newbies, do take notes)is 1800 watts, while a 20-amp circuit is 2400 watts. Where do those numbers come from? Using Watts/Voltate=Amps, you can manipulate the formulate to tweak things around. Again, this is for newbies only.
Amperage refers to total "carrying capacity". Sure, higher numbers are better, but that's when dealing with AC. Once you knock it down via a transformer and stuff it into something expecting that DC flow, it's not equipped to handle excessive amperage. This isn't like you can plug in 15-amp gear into a 20-amp circuit and have no problem, becase in this case, we're dealing with voltage draw only. Likewise, you don't plug in something that needs 120Volts into a 220Volts circuit unless you want BOOM.
But we're talking apples to oranges. AC has its own set of rules. DC has its own set of rules. Personally, I wouldn't be running something that gives 1.5amps of DC current into something expecting .3 amps of DC current.
Maybe someday someone will pay attention to my tech rider. I don't count on it. I can't venue operators to understand that in my case, I have exactly calculated my power requirements. I can't run a bunch of lights, mains, monitors, FOH off a single outlet that's gotta be shared with the video hack, photo slacker and the house neon!
In the meantime, I agree with your diagnostics: make sure they are all programmed te same. I bet some of this crap might be due to bad power. If you're like around here, power sucks. When you start pulling on a circuit, voltage drops. It appears the local power utility is incapable of providing a nice stiff power supply to a facility, much less a house. My suggestion would be to go beyond merely a power-strip-type solution and go with a power conditioner. Such a unit will do what it can(within tolerances) to provide as much as possible a nice steady regulated AC power supply. Like, the Furman AC-20, for example. I know we're not supposed to mention brands, but it appears the moderators are a bit looser in their moderation practices these days. I'm not here to bash ADJ products, as anyone will tell you, I like them. But some products of theirs don't "do it" for me. So, I'll avoid those products and focus on the ones I do have and like instead.
Do also keep in mind(and newbies, DO read this) that "wall outlet does NOT = dedicated circuit". Honestly, I think if responsible electricians saw what was going on in most venues, they'd crap themelves and wonder how this was passed by an inspector and if permits were obtained for the work in the first place. I think in your case, you're well familiar with the venues you work at, which is really a good thing. For newbies, the best thing possible is to invest in a "circuit finder". I have one that cost me maybe $20 or so. You plug in the remote into the outlet, which is powered by the outlet's power and pushes a tone down that circuit. The main tool itself is battery powered, and you place it over the breaker in the panel and it will read that RF tone and then gladly squawk it back at you. Draw yourself a picture and keep it on file, because you might need it. For newbies, this is a cheap investment and is necessary.
I'd say call ADJ's service department and see about ordering a replacement set of AC adaptors. While you're at it, how are you mounting those? Too bad Dr. Ferd's Wart Removers are no longer made, that was a great little wall-wart busting product. I also don't know how you transport your gear. But as I said, I broke my original AC adaptor for my DMX Operator at HOME. Dropped out of my hand onto the concrete in my garage. Thank goodness it was during the annual inspection. You might want to stuff the AC adaptor into a padded case or with your cabling as a buffer. In my case, I used some double-sided tape and for lack of a better term, permanently stuck mine to my Furman unit in the rack. It ain't moving! Well, it could, but I don't want it to.
I'm taking a break from the forums. I'm behind on my latest annual inspection, gear inventory and other projects. So, chances are I'll only be around once a day. Gotta market my business as well. You don't sink another $20K in gear and not tell people you're alive(outside your bank and equipment selling buddies).