I have the DMX Operator, also a discontinued model. My AC adaptor is 9Volts, 300mA. This matches what ADJ included with the unit in the first place.
The manual states 9-12Volts, 300mA minimum.
Personally, while the higher miliAmps provides a "stiffer" current, you can overdo it. With such loose tolerances, it's nice to get some leeway especially if you're in a jam and don't have all the choices one would like. But grossly overpowering the input is going to exceed what any resistors inline with the input circuit may be rated for. Either way, too much or too little can damage electronics.
Do keep in mind that these wall warts do tend to take a beating, and it might be time for a replacement. Yeah, I know, no moving parts. Still, they can wear out.
Hopefully you didn't fry your memory.
Gotta ask some questions, and sorry of they may sound insulting. I deal with a LOT of DJ's, and I'm not a DJ, I'm an audio engineer. Practices I seee DJ's do make me ill.
First off, how many circuits are you using for lights? How about sound? What are you using for sound? What size room or how big of a crowd?
Let's look at things from a power management issue. I'm suspecting you're over-driving your gear, mainly on the sound side of things. You mention that your controller got erratic when then sound got louder. I suspect that you're running your sound and controller off the same circuit. I'm not saying this is a bad thing because it may not be. I bet when the bass bumped, that's when the controller started acting up. Why? That was a peak pull on power to the amplifier. This usually means a transient in high current draw. I say "usually" because unless you're using a low droning sub-bass tone, it's not gonna be a continuous pull. Even "bass heavy music" doesn't pull constantly.
I bet you're also running "in the red". Red is bad. I don't like the red, but I don't mind hitting it and peaking once in a while as dictated by the music. But I also have tricks like running the mains where they should, but then running a matrix off the mains in case I am working smaller rooms. This allows me to maintain proper gain structure, while letting me keep sound where it should be or needs to be.
Lights behave differently than sound. When lights draw, they draw. A 150-watt fixture(say, a Par38) is gonna draw 150-watts when full on the ENTIRE time it is full on. Now, even if your amp is rated at say 400 watts, it is only going to be drawing that at clipping, or at least should be.
Clipping an amplifier can do nasty and horrific things, usually to the speakers. I saw this one wedding band having a rough go of it. Why? The tweeters caught fire because they kept clipping the amp and hence that sent nasty transients to the speaker. This is not to be confused with the transients I described earlier. The earlier transients refer to "temporary increased power draw". The transients I am referring to now involve running WFO(which can be safe) and just hammering the amps with peaked/clipping signal constantly. This is the sign of not only an inexperienced audio engineer(in this case, a DJ with too many channels thinking he can handle a band) as well as insufficient power.
In my typical scenario, I distribute power. My FOH rig is quite extensive and draws around 13.5 amps and is on it's own circuit. I try to split my mains onto two different circuits(typical small PA). Monitors and backline on another circuit, and lights on whatever else I can get.
Analyze how you had things set up. I'm willing bet that you had your sound on the same circuit as your lighting controller(and your DJ mixer). Don't think that "different outlet is different circuit" either. Take your controllers home and see about running some "demo scenes" on them. I can certainly understand how this might be misleading since you may not set up lights to see if they are misbehaving.
I'm glad that in my case, I have my DMX Operator, and in case of failure, I have MyDMX. Or rather, I think that order is going to reverse.